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TASTING BORDEAUX FROM 2007 AND 2006 In pursuit of a Sherry-Lehmann-sponsored tasting of the 2006 and 2007 Bordeaux, I wandered over to the Four Seasons restaurant in Manhattan on Saturday afternoon. Given that I've dedicated myself and this site to wine education and wine appreciation rather than ratings and numbers, I'll just list my favorite wines from the tasting and fill in more information as I get the time.  My very favorite is the Chateau Angelus 2007 from St. Emilion. Granted, everything from this estate is very pricey, as it's a Class B Premier Grand Cru Classe from the rather strange St. Emilion classification system.My second choice is the Chateau Gazin 2006 from Pomerol. I've got a case of the 05 resting comfortably in my cellar, and they may get some younger friends soon, I think. My third choice is the Chateau Kirwan 2006 from Margaux. Here I think the influence of 10-12% Petit Verdot really adds something. My fourth choice is the Chateau Figeac 2007 from St. Emilion. Rounding out the top five is Chateau Giscours 2007 from Margaux. Many though not all of the 'sixes seem identical to me - and too acidic, too tannic - sometimes roughly so - and generally lacking the fruit I like. But if you look at my top favorites, you'll also see that three of the top five are so-called right-bank wines, which are heavy on Merlot and much less so on Cabernet Sauvignon. The Vintages It seems that the '06 vintage is the product of a generally lousy year, climactically speaking. There was lower than average rain from spring until summer when it was most needed, followed by searing heat in July that nearly shut down the vines. August brought cool and rainy days and the threat of rot with them. And then in mind-September, a deluge of rain. These are ideal conditions. Ideal for a lousy harvest, that is. Yet I still found a few sixes that I like. Before fall the '07 wasn't turning out any better...until September (I was there) when a month of helping winds, sunshine and consistently warm days really pulled this one out, unlike my adopted NT Jets, who were unfortunately unable to last weekend. At the same time, the earlier summer rains produced a lot of noble rot and excellent sweet Sauternes. Some other Reds from the two vintages that I really like include:
And my point here is what it always is - You do need to train your palate and educate yourself a bit, and then, follow your taste buds. Labels: Bordeaux, Chateau Angelus, Chateau Figeac, Chateau Gazin, Chateau Giscours, Chateau Kirwan, Sherry-Lehmann HOUSE WINE HABIT? Natalie McLean is a damn good writer and knows her way around a bottle and a vineyard or two. I recommend her Red, White and Drunk All Over as a fun and educational book, and unlike talk show hosts, I actually read the whole thing and am not working from the Cliff's Notes version hastily written by an intern who's been up all night turning pages. Gee, I wish I had an intern. Anyway, good as Natalie is, I disagree with her when when she says (on her website) that every wine lover should have a "house wine." In my experience, that's precisely what people who are new to wine get wrong, and what often keeps them from learning about new wine places, varietals and styles. Is there anything wrong with enjoying a particular wine, and keeping several bottles of it on hand for guests and gatherings? No. But I can't tell you how many times I've visited friends and been "treated" to the same Merlot from the same winery - their "house wine." When they visit, they are gracious enough to bring wine as a gift, but guess what they bring? Gee, thanks, what a surprise - twice in one week! Now I'm a big fan of Merlot-based wines, especially those from St. Emilion and Pomerol, and anyone who's tasted a Chateau Angelus sure knows what I mean. And I've even been known to enjoy a glass of California Merlot from time to time. But it's just one grape in the pantheon of reds, and while my well-meaning friends are happily numbing their palates, they're missing out on so much. It's just too easy to stay with one varietal and one winery once you get comfortable with them, like a worn out couch...or husband. But it's not much fun. So here's a short list of what you're missing: Cabernet Franc: As a varietal it can be wonderful, with vegetal notes in a cherry wrapping. Try Lang & Reed. Carmenere: Almost unknown here, they do great things with this smoky, leathery grape in France and Chile, and nowadays even California. Also known as Grand Vidure. Charbono: Obscure grape that they're still making into a varietal in north Napa. Try Summers Estate Winery. Grenache: So delicious as the base of French red Chateauneuf du Pape wines. White Grenache is the base of the white ones. Mourvedre: An intense, tannic and gamey grape that originated in Spain. Can stand alone but is most often used in blends. Also called Monastrell. Norton: A native North American grape that can produce a spicy, raspberry-y red. Try Augusta Winery. Petit Sirah: Not the same as Syrah, and makes a fabulous varietal every bit as big and bold as a cult Cabernet. Try Pedroncelli. Pinotage: A South African cross of Pinot Noir with Cinsault. Sangiovese: Base for Chianti wines. When blended with Cabernet and/or Merlot, these are the so-called "Super Tuscans." A clone of Sangiovese goes into one of the best wines of the last 10 years, the Casanova di Neri Brunello di Montalcino Tenuta Nuova, which got an unheard-of 100 points in 2001 from Wine Spectator, and was its "Wine of the Year" in 2006. Tempranillo: Spanish grape, main part of Spanish Rioja red wines and goes into Port under the name Tinto Roriz. Tannat: From the French Madiran region. Intensely tannic wine that can cellar age for decades. So: love your house wine, if you have one. But step out on it frequently. You'll be glad you were unfaithful. Labels: Charbono, Chateau Angelus, House wine, Merlot, Mourvedre, Natalie McLean, Norton, Petit Sirah, Pinotage, Wine-Flair A GREEN WINE FROM A RED TRUCK? If you're having, oh, 10 people over for a glass of red wine but don't plan to break out the Chateau Angelus, you might want to look into a mini-barrel from Sonoma's Red Truck winery. This thing holds 3 liters, the equivalent of four bottles, and it's designed - obviously - to look like a wine barrel, complete with "rings", an "oak" finish and "burned in" image and name. They're only offering it for sale right now at Sam's Club, but later in the year I understand they'll offer it much more widely. I haven't tasted (yet) this rather unusual mix of Syrah, Petit Sirah,Cabernet Franc, Mourvedre and Grenache. Curiously, though, the news release and all the subsequent wine industry coverage that I saw really focused on the packaging - innovative, relatively low carbon footprint, superior preservation for up to 40 days, and an inclined inner liner that requires no tipping to get the last drop of wine. As for what's inside? The winemaker's notes say "Medium-bodied and complex, flavors of chocolate, berries, cherries and licorice abound. The black pepper finish settles with smooth tannins." Not sure about the settling part, but as I said, I'll try it out and give you my impressions for what they're worth. But as I've always said, your impressions are really what count. For sure, Red Truck wants on the eco-friendly, "green winery" bandwagon in a big way, and there's nothing wrong with that. Nor is there anything wrong with alternative packaging, especially when it makes a positive difference in the environment without compromising the taste or preservation of the wine. But it won't fit nicely on the shelf, I don't think, next to standard 750 cl bottles, and in the minds of some, it's still gonna be a "box" wine, which is why I say taste first. I do think you'll see more and more good wine - perhaps not super-premium or luxury wine, for awhile - go into alternative packaging like this. But I don't think you'll be "barrel aging" the Red Truck. Labels: Chateau Angelus, Green Winery, Mourvedre, Red Truck Winery, Sam's Club |
Main photograph by Christine Costello (View of Gloria Ferrer Vineyards, Carneros, CA).
