Wine of the Week: Francois Cazin Cour Cheverny 2008

Fall is almost here and this wine, made from a grape you probably never heard of—Romorantin—is an ideal drink for the season. Lots of "onlys" here: there are only about 48 hectares of Romorantin in total, only in France's Loire valley, and amounting to only about 119 acres across 30 domaines. One of the best, proprietor François Cazin picks his grapes entirely by hand, uses gravity only (no pumping), wild rather than cultured yeasts, and bottles without filtering. So, when he gets a good crop, he gets great wines, but with so little manipulation, that’s not every year. Cazin’s white Cheverny is a blend of 70% Sauvignon Blanc and 30% Chardonnay, but the Cour-Cheverny by definition is 100% Romorantin. His…

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