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Posts Tagged ‘SoloRosa’

Hammer Time? No. Rosé Time.

 

Mulderbosch Rosé

For years, I thought that rosé wines were kids’ stuff – sweet, with no body or character.  This probably came from memories of drinking Mateus Rosé in my early 20s—that famously cheap, commercial wine in the familiar flask-shaped green bottle, invented to appeal to everyone. Too sweet to pair with food and lacking sufficient acidity to refresh, Mateus is fizzy but it’s not really a sparkling wine. I also remember drinking Lancers, Rosé d’Anjou, and under full disclosure I’ll even admit to having tasted white Zin from time to time. Hey, my Aunt Mary liked it and brought it to the house.

 

The result of those youthful indiscretions was that for a long time I though all pink wines were sugary, nasty stuff and almost never tried any of the many wonderful and bone-dry rosés on the market.  They’re actually great food wines, made from many grape varieties including  Grenache, Malbec, Merlot, Sangiovese, Syrah, Pinot Noir and yes, even Zinfandel, which when fermented dry makes a lovely drink that you will never confuse with Sutter Home’s sweet stuff.

 

Among wine snobs, Rosé has been “uncool” and that is unfortunate, because that’s kept a lot of folks from enjoying this wonderful wine that looks more beautiful in the glass than any other.  And there are plenty of wine-savvy places where drinking rose has always been in style.

 

How Rosés are Made

 

A lot of people believe Rosé wines are made by mixing a bit of red wine with a white wine. Generally, nope, with the exception of some Champagnes.  Most Rosés begin life just like red wines; red grapes are de-stemmed, crushed and then placed in a fermenter. But instead of spending two or three weeks with the grapes skins in contact with the juice, the skins are removed after a brief period, a few hours to maybe a couple days depending on the type of grape and the style the winemaker’s going for. This relatively brief skin contact allows just enough color to turn the wine pink (or salmon or orange or coral). It also adds a tiny bit of tannin, and some complexity.

 

Another method is to just drain off some of the juice from a red wine during its very early stages of fermentation, then place it into own fermenter and finish the process. The process is called saignee (“to bleed”) and it also nicely concentrates the original red wine.

 

Rosés are known for their strawberry and raspberry aromas and flavors, and their versatility; in fact, this is one of the few wines you can drink out of a tumbler on ice and still fully enjoy. And while a lot of wine writers say that these aren’t “serious” wines, I say hooey. Wine is supposed to be fun, to bring pleasure and to complement food and in my view, no wine does these more than a good Rosé.

 

Some of my favorites:

  • SoloRosa Russian River Valley Syrah Rosé
  • Château Miraval Rosé Côtes de Provence
  • Monte’s Cherub Rosé of Syrah
  • Marques de Caceres Rioja Rosé
  • Domaine Lafond Tavel Rosé
  • Mulderbosch Rosé (made from 100% Cabernet Sauvignon)
  • Chandon Rose NV (Sparkling wine from Domaine Chandon USA)

Some great food pairings:

  • BBQ burgers and ribs
  • Canneloni and lasagne
  • Charcuterie
  • Grilled or broiled salmon
  • Ham
  • Lobster
  • Omelettes
  • Pizza
  • Pork tenderloin
  • Tandoori and Thai chicken




Wine Not Take A Class?

Not long ago I took a 3-day Intermediate Certificate wine class at The International Wine Center in New York. Although I was possibly the most experienced student in the class, I still learned a lot – not so much wine “facts,” but really just having the opportunity to focus on wine without distractions, and getting new and different points of view. And the three days of tasting really was a great refresher for me, not having been in a formal class for awhile. The class was organized by geography, with an hour lecture/presentation followed by an hour of tasting wines from that region. We covered the US, Spain, France, and Italy among others.

For beginners as well as experienced wine students, I recommend the solid but friendly approach of Keith Wallace, founder and President of The Wine School of Philadelphia. Keith knows, as I do, that wine has been made into something mystical and, as wine writers sometimes say, “unapproachable.” He and his team have a way of fusing fun with practical knowledge, and his Foundation Course, one of the best available anywhere, is always sold out. I know…I took it a few years ago, and it’s gotten better and even more popular. The Wine School also offers a full range of intermediate (Certificate of Global Wine Studies) and advanced classes, including The Diploma Oenotrope, an advanced program that requires completing three certificate programs (Foundation, Global, and Advanced) along with a a senior project and a four month internship. All of Keith’s classes include tasting, which is an important part of any rigorous, professional wine course.

In New Jersey, I teach classes, too, and here’s a brochure that details some of them. I’d love to have you in a class soon!

And here’s something you should know about tasting wine in a professional or academic setting: it’s not all fun. That may sound absurd, but I’m here to tell you that you don’t just “taste” – you need to record your specific impressions using an accepted vocabulary, and then explain and justify your evaluation in front of your fellow students. You learn a lot in a tasting class because you’re required to describe what you’re tasting in meaningful terms, rather than just say you liked or didn’t like it. And when you’re tasting, say, 60 wines in an afternoon – or even a morning – you can’t actually drink them, or you’d be horizontal within a half hour. You taste and then spit, which frankly gets kinda gross after awhile.

I’ve also taken three professional wine classes at The Rudd Wine Center of the Culinary Institute of America, in St. Helena, California in the very heart of Napa Valley. Great classes, instructors who make and sell wine for a living (such as Jeff Morgan of SoloRosa and John Buechsenstein of Sauvignon Republic), and there you are surrounded by wineries and vineyards!

So, what I’m saying here is that if you’re really interested in wine, go take a class, or attend a true structured tasting. There you’ll get tasting notes, write down your own impressions, and usually get some good info from the instructor about the vineyards, climate, the country where the grapes come from, the styles of wine from that region, and comparisons with similar wines from other regions, countries or continents.

Another great way to learn about wine is simply from reading. My website, sure, and thanks for visiting – but there are a lot of good books out there. I personally wouldn’t read Wine for Dummies or any of the other “Dummy” series, as I don’t like giving money to people who insult me at the start – at least wait until you know me a little bit. And I’m not a dummy, and neither are you. You’re probably just new to wine, or perhaps you’ve been around the vineyard a bit but just not had the time to focus.

So perhaps start with a half-hour or hour of reading at night before you tune into The Daily Show with John Stewart (which I never miss), or instead of watching the dismal 11:00 pm news programs with stories of market and automobile crashes. There’s a host of good books out there, some of which I mention in “Wine Books.”


Rose-Eh?

With weather in the high 80s here in NJ and the entire northwest US, it’s time to think about crisp, refreshing wines meant to be served cold, out on your deck or patio with some grilled food. In other words, it’s time to think about Rose.

Now, if you stay away from Rose wines because of White Zinfandel – a light, semi-sweet wine that you can imagine only little old ladies sipping at Sunday brunch – you aren’t doing yourself any favors. Most are dry, even bone dry, and while they can be fruity many are also crisp, refreshing and a great complement to a variety of food including grilled meats. And in fact there are some outstanding dry Zinfandel rose wines; for example, Frey Vineyards in Mendocino County, California.

Another misconception is that rose wines are made by mixing a bit of red wine with a white wine. Nope. Now, some rose Champagnes have always been made that way, and there’s a movement underfoot in Europe to allow rose still wines to be made that way, but right now it’s generally not done and I doubt that the rules will change after all. Americans, thankfully, have never made Rose that way.

Most Roses begin life just like red wines; red grapes are de-stemmed, crushed and then placed in a fermenter. But instead of spending two or three weeks with the grapes skins in contact with the juice, the skins are removed after a brief period, a few hours to maybe a couple days depending on the type of grape and the style the winemaker’s going for. This relatively brief skin contact allows just enough color to turn the wine pink (or salmon or orange or coral or a lot of other words wine writers like to use). It also adds a little bit of tannin, and even some complexity.

Another method is to just drain off some of the juice from a red wine during its early stage of fermentation, then place it into own fermenter and finish the process with this pink juice. The process is called saignee (“to bleed”) and it also nicely concentrates the original red wine.

Roses are known for their strawberry and raspberry aromas and flavors, and their versatility; in fact, this is one of the few wines you can drink out of a tumbler on ice and still fully enjoy. And while a lot of wine writers say that these aren’t “serious” wines, I say hooey. Wine is supposed to be fun, to bring pleasure and to complement food and in my view, no wine does these more than a good rose.

Roses can be made from any red grape, and the only one I’m not fond of is Merlot – for some reason, the “white Merlots” I’ve tasted were weak, watery and had too much residual sugar. My favorite domestic rose is Solo Rosa, made by my friend Jeff Morgan in Napa. But there are hundreds more from the US and abroad – the famous Tavel Grenache/Cinsault Rose from France, Spanish Rosados made from Tempranillo, a bold Italian Stallion based on the powerful, obscure Lagrein grape, or one from down under based on what else? Shiraz.

This spring and summer, bring a dry Rose to a BBQ, or host one yourself and serve it well-chilled to your guests. You’ll be the hit of the neighborhood, I assure you! Here are some suggestions to try:

Crios de Susana Balbo, Rose of Malbec (Argentina), 2008 – Malbec, about $12

Turkey Flat Rose 2007 (Australia) – Grenache, Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon and Dolcetto, about $17

SoloRosa Dry Rose Russian River Valley 2008 (CA) – Syrah and Pinot Noir, about $18

Tangley Oaks Rose Napa 2007 (CA) – Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, about $17

Jaboulet Parallele 45 Rose 2007 (France) – Grenache, Cinsault and Syrah, about $10-12

Mas de Gourgonnier, Les Baux de Provence Rose, 2008 (France, organic) – Grenache and Syrah, about $15

Pavie, Rose de Pavie 2007 (France) – Cabernet Franc and Merlot, about $18 and worth it!

Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Cerasuolo DOC 2007 (Italy) – Montepulciano, about $13

Castillo di Jumilla, Monastrell Rose (Spain), 2008 – Monastrell, about $10

Las Rocas de San Alejandro, Rosado (Spain), 2007 – Grenache, about $9-10