Most people who drink wine but don't "follow" it haven't heard of Michel Rolland and probably won't be interested in the controversy that occasionally swirls around him. But he's a symbol of how the world of wine is consolidating, and the degree to which some winemakers are influencing wines to a remarkable degree. The question is, is this influence good for us consumers? Are a lot of formerly different and interesting wines starting to taste identical - and boring - on account of guys like Michel? Or is this just overstated, overly-dramatic hyperbole by people whose wines aren't getting the big scores? For those of us who are immersed in this stuff (get it?), everywhere we turn there's another article…

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